DSLR Photography Forum

Ok, ready for critique on this one. Still working on closeups of wild things......This robin in the back yard. Still my Nikon Coolpix P600, autofocus, zoom. Used Paintshop to get the effect of clarity and light and sharpness.

Getting there Pat. Needs a bit headroom,and, a wee bit adjustment, keep at it. Cheers. Ed.

Nice perspective and good exposure... :-) Agree with Ed on the headroom though...

Kind regards

Rolf

Nice shot
The American robin is in the same genus as our English (European) blackbird.
I've reduced the blue tint of the back and flight feathers which to my mind is truer to the species.



Peter

Excellent Peter, your knowledge shows. Ed.

Hi Ed, Would you all explain your terminology? I have a limited vocabulary in photographic vernacular. I'm an English Major, but don't know photo lingo. What is a "wee bit of headroom" (does that mean more space at the top of the pic), and, how do you address this when taking a photo or working on a stillife? And, what is a "wee bit of adjustment"? LOL. Pat

(Jan 30, 2015, 11:17)EdMak Wrote: [ -> ]Getting there Pat. Needs a bit headroom,and, a wee bit adjustment, keep at it. Cheers. Ed.

Thank you, Peter. How do you know about the species you are photographing? Do you research what they are before you begin or, are you a naturalist who knows these things? In other words, should I do a little research on the subjects I intend to photograph or have photographed to "correct" discrepancies, etc.?

(Jan 30, 2015, 13:54)Plantsman Wrote: [ -> ]Nice shot
The American robin is in the same genus as our English (European) blackbird.
I've reduced the blue tint of the back and flight feathers which to my mind is truer to the species.



Peter

Hi, a bit of space to the left of the head, easier to do this when taking Pic. I used Photoshop to give me this space, and copies the background onto it. Also sharpened, and adjusted the colour a bit. Peter improved this with his bird knowledge to make the colours more accurate. Cheers. Ed.

Hello Rolf - I have a question for you. You made a previous statement in one of your critiques about maybe my Nikon might be shooting "too much red". I have downloaded a Nikon manual, because I'm not sure how to correct what my camera is doing. And, how do you know what too much red is? These are real beginner questions, and guess I'm getting free teaching! Love it, I don't have to pay for a class. Think it was you who said about the red. Anyway, you mentioned "main focus point and putting it on the eye of the deer. Actually, I'm not making excuses here, but, I had maybe 20 to thirty seconds to stop, steady the camera, zoom in and frame and get the shot before he bolted. What I am dealing with in those woods is very early daylight, lots of shadows of early color light in the leaves and trees and background which is not as distinct as the bright daylight I had with the hawk. And could you explain what 2/3EV over exposure and metering points? I'm such a rookie. Should I carry a light meter with me? Don't have one yet. I am really fortunate to have you all giving me pointers, but, it really makes me think I have to go to local assistance here where I live. They do have a photography club once a month. Have a nice day or nite. Pat

(Jan 30, 2015, 11:23)Rolf Wrote: [ -> ]Nice perspective and good exposure... :-) Agree with Ed on the headroom though...

Kind regards

Rolf

Pete, click on my name to get to my profile, send me a message, or mail, as yet yours is no set up to do this. I will send you a Pic of your deer. Ed.

Edit. Don't put your address on here, recipe for spam.

[quote='czkid' pid='99381' dateline='1422654862']
Hello Rolf - I have a question for you. You made a previous statement in one of your critiques about maybe my Nikon might be shooting "too much red". I have downloaded a Nikon manual, because I'm not sure how to correct what my camera is doing. And, how do you know what too much red is? These are real beginner questions, and guess I'm getting free teaching! Love it, I don't have to pay for a class. Think it was you who said about the red. Anyway, you mentioned "main focus point and putting it on the eye of the deer. Actually, I'm not making excuses here, but, I had maybe 20 to thirty seconds to stop, steady the camera, zoom in and frame and get the shot before he bolted. What I am dealing with in those woods is very early daylight, lots of shadows of early color light in the leaves and trees and background which is not as distinct as the bright daylight I had with the hawk. And could you explain what 2/3EV over exposure and metering points? I'm such a rookie. Should I carry a light meter with me? Don't have one yet. I am really fortunate to have you all giving me pointers, but, it really makes me think I have to go to local assistance here where I live. They do have a photography club once a month. Have a nice day or nite. Pat

Wow! OK some of the Nikon cameras handle reds and blues quite oddly... reports from photographers that the red dresses on bridesmaid for example were rendered more a purple than red... on some cameras you can set the colour saturation in camera and you may be able to adjust the way your colours are rendered... The camera that you have is said to really desaturation as a default... a complaint amongst some who have commented on feed back sites. Your focus may also be down to the fact that the 600 has a long lag between pressing the shutter and the picture being taken... more time to attain camera shake. Focus is said to be soft as a firmware issue related to the 16MP sensor fitted to the camera but there is an option for increasing the sharpening in camera... look in the hand book for the appropriate menu.
Regarding the focus point... again look in the handbook and see if there is a function call Focus Lock... that way you can put the focal point... that you see in the view finder, on the eye of the Deer, get focus and press that button if you have it. That will lock the focus distance to the eye... recompose the framing and shoot... if you move forward or backwards the focus will be off because it was locked at the first distance and wont refocus until the shutter has been actuated. You may also be able to half press the shutter, with the focus point on the eye... recompose and fully depress the shutter to take the shot... some Cannon and Panasonics that seems to work for... But remember.. you have a really bad lag so having recomposed and pressed the shutter that in time delay you may think you have taken the shot and started to lower the camera slightly and then it fires and the shot is blurred slightly.
EV numbers are a way to express the brightness of a scene in a scale that combines the shutter speed and aperture settings into one number -- letting the you choose what combination of shutter speed and aperture settings to use. Each EV number equals one stop of brightness, so a scene with an EV of 6 is one stop brighter than a scene with an EV of 5
EV 0 is a level of light at the camera that gives correct exposure at f1 at 1 second at ISO 100 Most cameras that allow you exposure compensation also allow you to select by what increment each click of the dial gives. For example I have mine set at 1/3 EV increments... that is 1/3 of a stop. I really don't think you want to get into "the F stop" just yet... Suffice it to say the EV value is a value of exposure and not light... it really doesn't care whether you over or under expose your image. You may find that your histogram shows that the image is dark... underexposed... instead of reconfiguring all your settings you can just dial in 1/3 or more compensation which in effect will correct the exposure... All of the settings that you use are inter related... if you change one it will affect the others... this is a big can of worms... Start with understanding the triangle of shutter speed/aperture and sensitivity (ISO) of your sensor and how that works... You should be able to get that from the Club members who have been into photography for a while and have a sound understanding themselves... let them explain and hands on show you...?

You don't need a light meter! The camera has one built in... :-)

If there is anyone out there with a better explanation or would like to correct me.. please feel free... I hope I have helped and not served to confuse you more?

Have a look at this review... http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/n...00_review/

and try this too... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value

Kind regards

Rolf

Perhaps the 1/8 sec exposure, is the "Focus Problem" of the deer, ie, movement. You did well considering. I would think if the light had been better, then Autofocus/Continuous Autofocus, would have done the job fine, I rely on it mainly. Ed.

(Jan 30, 2015, 15:38)czkid Wrote: [ -> ]Thank you, Peter. How do you know about the species you are photographing? Do you research what they are before you begin or, are you a naturalist who knows these things? In other words, should I do a little research on the subjects I intend to photograph or have photographed to "correct" discrepancies, etc.?

[quote='Plantsman' pid='99376' dateline='1422647658']
Nice shot
The American robin is in the same genus as our English (European) blackbird.
I've reduced the blue tint of the back and flight feathers which to my mind is truer to the species.

I regard myself as a very amateur naturalist and like to look up information on all creatures I come across; how much information I manage to retain over time is another matter. Having spent a working life in horticulture the scientific names of plants come as second nature to me so naturally this spills over into fauna I see when out with the camera. To impart a little knowledge to others, and to gain knowledge in return is a pleasure, but hopefully I don't go over the top, but stick with a brief description where appropriate.
As for the amount of research you might do, that is down to your interests regarding the subjects you photograph. Personally I think that most images merit a little more than just information on photographic techniques. Of course in a forum such as this is, photography takes priority.

Knowledge of the subject does indeed help to correct anomalies, in particular colour. Unfortunately the camera does not always reproduce faithfully - otherwise we would not require so much use of imaging software. The more you learn about the functions (menus) of your camera, after understanding the basics of photography, the less you will have to fall back on post processing (corrections by software programs).

Having ranted on a bit I would add that that there are members here who have far more advanced knowledge of photography than I have.

Peter

WOW! Rolf, thanks so much. This took me much less time picking your brain for a few minutes of your time than my researching when I don't get to the right resources yet. I truly understand what you are saying. Thanks much, Pat

(Jan 30, 2015, 17:57)Rolf Wrote: [ -> ][quote='czkid' pid='99381' dateline='1422654862']
Hello Rolf - I have a question for you. You made a previous statement in one of your critiques about maybe my Nikon might be shooting "too much red". I have downloaded a Nikon manual, because I'm not sure how to correct what my camera is doing. And, how do you know what too much red is? These are real beginner questions, and guess I'm getting free teaching! Love it, I don't have to pay for a class. Think it was you who said about the red. Anyway, you mentioned "main focus point and putting it on the eye of the deer. Actually, I'm not making excuses here, but, I had maybe 20 to thirty seconds to stop, steady the camera, zoom in and frame and get the shot before he bolted. What I am dealing with in those woods is very early daylight, lots of shadows of early color light in the leaves and trees and background which is not as distinct as the bright daylight I had with the hawk. And could you explain what 2/3EV over exposure and metering points? I'm such a rookie. Should I carry a light meter with me? Don't have one yet. I am really fortunate to have you all giving me pointers, but, it really makes me think I have to go to local assistance here where I live. They do have a photography club once a month. Have a nice day or nite. Pat

Wow! OK some of the Nikon cameras handle reds and blues quite oddly... reports from photographers that the red dresses on bridesmaid for example were rendered more a purple than red... on some cameras you can set the colour saturation in camera and you may be able to adjust the way your colours are rendered... The camera that you have is said to really desaturation as a default... a complaint amongst some who have commented on feed back sites. Your focus may also be down to the fact that the 600 has a long lag between pressing the shutter and the picture being taken... more time to attain camera shake. Focus is said to be soft as a firmware issue related to the 16MP sensor fitted to the camera but there is an option for increasing the sharpening in camera... look in the hand book for the appropriate menu.
Regarding the focus point... again look in the handbook and see if there is a function call Focus Lock... that way you can put the focal point... that you see in the view finder, on the eye of the Deer, get focus and press that button if you have it. That will lock the focus distance to the eye... recompose the framing and shoot... if you move forward or backwards the focus will be off because it was locked at the first distance and wont refocus until the shutter has been actuated. You may also be able to half press the shutter, with the focus point on the eye... recompose and fully depress the shutter to take the shot... some Cannon and Panasonics that seems to work for... But remember.. you have a really bad lag so having recomposed and pressed the shutter that in time delay you may think you have taken the shot and started to lower the camera slightly and then it fires and the shot is blurred slightly.
EV numbers are a way to express the brightness of a scene in a scale that combines the shutter speed and aperture settings into one number -- letting the you choose what combination of shutter speed and aperture settings to use. Each EV number equals one stop of brightness, so a scene with an EV of 6 is one stop brighter than a scene with an EV of 5
EV 0 is a level of light at the camera that gives correct exposure at f1 at 1 second at ISO 100 Most cameras that allow you exposure compensation also allow you to select by what increment each click of the dial gives. For example I have mine set at 1/3 EV increments... that is 1/3 of a stop. I really don't think you want to get into "the F stop" just yet... Suffice it to say the EV value is a value of exposure and not light... it really doesn't care whether you over or under expose your image. You may find that your histogram shows that the image is dark... underexposed... instead of reconfiguring all your settings you can just dial in 1/3 or more compensation which in effect will correct the exposure... All of the settings that you use are inter related... if you change one it will affect the others... this is a big can of worms... Start with understanding the triangle of shutter speed/aperture and sensitivity (ISO) of your sensor and how that works... You should be able to get that from the Club members who have been into photography for a while and have a sound understanding themselves... let them explain and hands on show you...?

You don't need a light meter! The camera has one built in... :-)

If there is anyone out there with a better explanation or would like to correct me.. please feel free... I hope I have helped and not served to confuse you more?

Have a look at this review... http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/n...00_review/

and try this too... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value

Kind regards

Rolf

Peter, thank you so much for the insight. You don't rant. I am a student of "life" having reached over 70......I never quite learning, and I learn from others who don't mind giving me insight into things. Thanks again, hope I'm not being a bother. When I get famous, I will quit "bothering" everyone.............lol You probably have realized I have a dry sense of humor.

(Jan 31, 2015, 06:26)Plantsman Wrote: [ -> ]

(Jan 30, 2015, 15:38)czkid Wrote: [ -> ]Thank you, Peter. How do you know about the species you are photographing? Do you research what they are before you begin or, are you a naturalist who knows these things? In other words, should I do a little research on the subjects I intend to photograph or have photographed to "correct" discrepancies, etc.?

[quote='Plantsman' pid='99376' dateline='1422647658']
Nice shot
The American robin is in the same genus as our English (European) blackbird.
I've reduced the blue tint of the back and flight feathers which to my mind is truer to the species.

I regard myself as a very amateur naturalist and like to look up information on all creatures I come across; how much information I manage to retain over time is another matter. Having spent a working life in horticulture the scientific names of plants come as second nature to me so naturally this spills over into fauna I see when out with the camera. To impart a little knowledge to others, and to gain knowledge in return is a pleasure, but hopefully I don't go over the top, but stick with a brief description where appropriate.
As for the amount of research you might do, that is down to your interests regarding the subjects you photograph. Personally I think that most images merit a little more than just information on photographic techniques. Of course in a forum such as this is, photography takes priority.

Knowledge of the subject does indeed help to correct anomalies, in particular colour. Unfortunately the camera does not always reproduce faithfully - otherwise we would not require so much use of imaging software. The more you learn about the functions (menus) of your camera, after understanding the basics of photography, the less you will have to fall back on post processing (corrections by software programs).

Having ranted on a bit I would add that that there are members here who have far more advanced knowledge of photography than I have.

Peter

Thanks Ed, I do use Autofocus/continuous, but, the light is the problem deep under the old growth trees, and I get a lot of fade and bright color mixed depending on where the sun is, i.e., anywhere from 7a.m. to 8a.m. May be I need a more expensive camera with more bells and whistles???

(Jan 31, 2015, 03:39)EdMak Wrote: [ -> ]Perhaps the 1/8 sec exposure, is the "Focus Problem" of the deer, ie, movement. You did well considering. I would think if the light had been better, then Autofocus/Continuous Autofocus, would have done the job fine, I rely on it mainly. Ed.

Does your camera fire, even when it is out of focus, on all/any settings. Ed.