Jun 21, 2005, 02:43
After a brief discussion regarding the use of slow shutter speeds to photograph water recently, I went for a bit of a browse through some of my own photos to see the effect that various shutter speeds has on water.
I found a series of photos I took about two months ago of a lake near my house (Yanjebup lake) where I had experimented with this, and because all the shots were taken under the same lighting conditions, same water and wind conditions and using the same lens, I thought they were worth sharing to illustrate the effect.
(all shots taken on a Canon 350D with an EF 50mm f/1.8 prime lens at 100 ISO on a tripod with a remote shutter release. All photos taken as "RAW" files and have had their exposure settings, white balance and other RAW parameters manually tweaked on the PC).
![[Image: B_IMG_2377.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/B_IMG_2377.jpg)
Shots "A" and "B" pretty much show what the water looked like to the naked eye. It was fairly calm, but there were still definate ripples. You can see a slight softening of the water in the 1/15 second shot (B), but this is probably more due to the very shallow depth of field (f/1.8 aperture) and close focal point than the slightly slower shutter speed.
![[Image: D_IMG_2371.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/D_IMG_2371.jpg)
By closing up the aperture (INCREASING the f-number from 1.8 to 22), this allows you to use much longer shutter speeds to get the same exposure (it also has the effect of increasing depth of field). By slowing the shutter speed down to 1.6 or 2 seconds (shots C and D respectively), you can see a dramatic difference in the water compared to shots A and B. Most of the ripples have been softened out to a large extent and you are left with a lovely velvety look which often appears to have a slight layer of mist above it. While this looks much calmer than shots A and B, some movement is still evident in the water in C and D.
![[Image: E_IMG_2379.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/E_IMG_2379.jpg)
Finally, by adding a polarising filter and/or neutral-density filter, it is possible to achieve even slower shutter speeds without over-exposing the image. Shot E shown here is a 10 second shot where I used a polarising filter which blocks out about 2 stops of light (quadrupling the required shutter speed from about 2.5 seconds to 10 seconds).
You can see that using a 10 second shutter speed removes almost all detail from the water and makes it appear almost completely flat.
These photos will hopefully provide some kind of guide when shooting water, or maybe give some incentive to experiment. You can choose how much detail you want to keep in the water and then choose an appropriate shutter speed to suit... and then try to adjust your camera to suit this shutter speed.
Obviously there are numerous other considerations when setting up for a shot which may not allow you to use the desired shutter speed, but everything in photography involves trading one thing for another and finding the best compromise.
Also keep in mind that not all water will behave in the same way it does in these shots. The water you are shooting might be moving faster or slower, it might be surf, chop, river currents or a waterfall. You will need to experiement as I have here, but I'm sure you'll agree that the results have a dramatic impact on the photograph that results.
I found a series of photos I took about two months ago of a lake near my house (Yanjebup lake) where I had experimented with this, and because all the shots were taken under the same lighting conditions, same water and wind conditions and using the same lens, I thought they were worth sharing to illustrate the effect.
(all shots taken on a Canon 350D with an EF 50mm f/1.8 prime lens at 100 ISO on a tripod with a remote shutter release. All photos taken as "RAW" files and have had their exposure settings, white balance and other RAW parameters manually tweaked on the PC).
![[Image: A_IMG_2355.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/A_IMG_2355.jpg)
![[Image: B_IMG_2377.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/B_IMG_2377.jpg)
Shots "A" and "B" pretty much show what the water looked like to the naked eye. It was fairly calm, but there were still definate ripples. You can see a slight softening of the water in the 1/15 second shot (B), but this is probably more due to the very shallow depth of field (f/1.8 aperture) and close focal point than the slightly slower shutter speed.
![[Image: C_IMG_2358-Exp1.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/C_IMG_2358-Exp1.jpg)
![[Image: D_IMG_2371.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/D_IMG_2371.jpg)
By closing up the aperture (INCREASING the f-number from 1.8 to 22), this allows you to use much longer shutter speeds to get the same exposure (it also has the effect of increasing depth of field). By slowing the shutter speed down to 1.6 or 2 seconds (shots C and D respectively), you can see a dramatic difference in the water compared to shots A and B. Most of the ripples have been softened out to a large extent and you are left with a lovely velvety look which often appears to have a slight layer of mist above it. While this looks much calmer than shots A and B, some movement is still evident in the water in C and D.
![[Image: E_IMG_2379.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/E_IMG_2379.jpg)
Finally, by adding a polarising filter and/or neutral-density filter, it is possible to achieve even slower shutter speeds without over-exposing the image. Shot E shown here is a 10 second shot where I used a polarising filter which blocks out about 2 stops of light (quadrupling the required shutter speed from about 2.5 seconds to 10 seconds).
You can see that using a 10 second shutter speed removes almost all detail from the water and makes it appear almost completely flat.
These photos will hopefully provide some kind of guide when shooting water, or maybe give some incentive to experiment. You can choose how much detail you want to keep in the water and then choose an appropriate shutter speed to suit... and then try to adjust your camera to suit this shutter speed.
Obviously there are numerous other considerations when setting up for a shot which may not allow you to use the desired shutter speed, but everything in photography involves trading one thing for another and finding the best compromise.
Also keep in mind that not all water will behave in the same way it does in these shots. The water you are shooting might be moving faster or slower, it might be surf, chop, river currents or a waterfall. You will need to experiement as I have here, but I'm sure you'll agree that the results have a dramatic impact on the photograph that results.