Feb 25, 2006, 08:16
Feb 25, 2006, 08:58
hi
yes the problems is that the sky is way to white and the reflection on the water from the sky...way to white
yes the problems is that the sky is way to white and the reflection on the water from the sky...way to white
Feb 25, 2006, 09:01
thats it !!! thanks for your help. I will try to crop it out or something . Thanks for your help .
Anything else?
Anything else?
Feb 25, 2006, 12:05
Flat. It is lacking punch. The lines are great. Maybe a tighter crop at the bottom just at the first pole.
Feb 25, 2006, 18:23
I would suggest that it's missing a subject. It's a nice scene, and an interesting structure, but there's no focal point to it. I'd love a train or a person on the bridge, if that's possible. A day with a blue sky would add interest to the reflection as well.
Feb 25, 2006, 21:02
I think a curves adjustment to bring out the colours more, as well as a tighter crop to help define your subject, which I see as being the wooden structure.
Feb 26, 2006, 00:44
Drake:
Good start - what is going on with the diagnol cut on the lower left? - no detail at all. I suspecrt this is because you are using film and scanning...
If you have an original of this, try a different crop with less whitout on the lower left. This is good stuff - keep st it.
Good start - what is going on with the diagnol cut on the lower left? - no detail at all. I suspecrt this is because you are using film and scanning...
If you have an original of this, try a different crop with less whitout on the lower left. This is good stuff - keep st it.
Feb 27, 2006, 05:14
How about a squarish crop?
![[Image: 48_Railroad.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/48_Railroad.jpg)
![[Image: 48_Railroad.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/48_Railroad.jpg)
Feb 27, 2006, 06:01
Actually gang, this looks like Mr Overexposure..? The meter has tried to see a dark object as 18%grey, thus overexposing by 1 or 2 stops.
The same thing happens in many snow shots, by the way: the camera underexposes by trying to "even out" the exposure, hence grey snow!(Don't eat the grey snow
)
Jules has cropped nicely here.
I try(in my photos at least:/) to embrace "weakness" and turn it to strength: these swathes of white are a yummy paradise of compositional fun.
I've tried to use the photo's strong lines and inherently good texture/form thus:
![[Image: zigged.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/zigged.jpg)
The same thing happens in many snow shots, by the way: the camera underexposes by trying to "even out" the exposure, hence grey snow!(Don't eat the grey snow

Jules has cropped nicely here.
I try(in my photos at least:/) to embrace "weakness" and turn it to strength: these swathes of white are a yummy paradise of compositional fun.
I've tried to use the photo's strong lines and inherently good texture/form thus:
![[Image: zigged.jpg]](http://www.shuttertalk.com/forums/images/upload/zigged.jpg)
Feb 27, 2006, 07:14
Great job ST , and Zig.
I guess i needed to speed the shutter up a little bit. I was tryin to get some sharpness too and seemed to have missed it.
I am going back there soon ( next day or two ) . I am going to make this one right , and going to take everyones ideas and use them
.
Thanks for the help ......... Shawn
I guess i needed to speed the shutter up a little bit. I was tryin to get some sharpness too and seemed to have missed it.
I am going back there soon ( next day or two ) . I am going to make this one right , and going to take everyones ideas and use them

Thanks for the help ......... Shawn
Feb 27, 2006, 08:53
This image looks to me like a typical candidate for an HDR (High Dynamic Range) picture. The difference in brightness between the sky and the dark areas under the bridge can't be handled by digital cameras and probably not by film either.
Mini-Howto: If you go there again and bring a tripod, try to make a series of identical shots with different shutterspeeds. The difference between the shots should be at least one f-stop. Try to go from -3 to +3, if you shoot on film then maybe even more. In Photoshop CS2 you can create an HDR image from these pictures (File - Automate - Merge to HDR). The result will be a 32bit picture. When converting this to 16 or 8 bit, you can tweak a few params to get the sky as well as the dark areas.
References:
Wikipedia: High dynamic range imaging,
Luminous Landscape HDR Tutorial
Mini-Howto: If you go there again and bring a tripod, try to make a series of identical shots with different shutterspeeds. The difference between the shots should be at least one f-stop. Try to go from -3 to +3, if you shoot on film then maybe even more. In Photoshop CS2 you can create an HDR image from these pictures (File - Automate - Merge to HDR). The result will be a 32bit picture. When converting this to 16 or 8 bit, you can tweak a few params to get the sky as well as the dark areas.
References:
Wikipedia: High dynamic range imaging,
Luminous Landscape HDR Tutorial
Feb 27, 2006, 14:13
i will have to work on the post processing later . Right now i am trying ( and i do mean trying
, to get it on film first. I am trying to figure all this out before i learn PS . Not that there is anything wrong with PS , i just want to learn the camera first and then the computer . But i really thank you for your help and i am sure that it will work.
I am heading back out there today , and give it another go . And a few more shot too.
Thanks ........ Shawn

I am heading back out there today , and give it another go . And a few more shot too.
Thanks ........ Shawn