I was wondering what filters are " a must " ( if any ) . I do not use any right now , trying to work on exposure and sharpness . Will filters help me out or are they just for color corections ( if that makes sence ) . I do plan on getting a polorizer and a neutruall dencity ( sp ) . but are there more that i need to think about getting? I really want to work on my landscape photos , and my portrait photos and would like to hear ya'lls input before i start really looking.
I forgot to say , i do have UV filters that never come off the lenses ...
Thanks ....... Shawn
Other than the constantly-in-place UV filters, I really only use a circular polarizer. I have some other filters - neutral density, graduated filters in both blue and tobacco colors - but I have to tell you I never use them.
I used to use a lot more filters when I shot film - because you only had one chance to get it right. Now that I shoot RAW and digital, the effects that most filters give you are better done in PhotoShop because you retain your original shot intact. A lot of special effects filters are very unsubtle in their effects - and the results look unsubtle. Having said that, you really can't replicate all the effects of a polarizer in PhotoShop - you do need one of these.
When I shot B&W, filters were mandatory - to get anything like the effects that Zig does, you would need to shoot with red, yellow or orange filters in front of your lens. But does anybody with a digital camera actually shoot with the camera supplied B&W mode? The in-camera conversion to B&W is irreversable - and you get way more control in the conversion in post-processing.
So my advice - get the best circular polarizer you can buy. Consider neutral density filters if you shoot a lot in situations where you have very bright sunlight. As far special effects filters, I have more fun improvising with things I see or find. You would use most special effects filters so little, that they would just clutter up your camera bag.
Best
Toad
Polarizers and ND are all you really need, in my opinion. A polarizer is a must (...then why do I only have it for one of my three lenses...?) and an ND can be useful. The very dark ND filters can also really bring out a deep blue sky. (Nope, don't own any of them, either.)
Other filters, especially for B&W conversion, can be more effectively applied in Photoshop. Elements even costs less than a good filter.
Here's the reason why I don't use filters: good ones are expensive. I've done some tests with a cheap ($30 for 58mm) red contrast filter in B&W conversion; it was absolutely savaged the image quality. Cellophane held on with an elastic band would have been an improvement. (At least then it would have passed for artistic.) I'm considering investing in some good glass filters, but they're in the price range of a 2GB CF card, cable release, or an ExpoDisc.
I also think that UV filters are over-rated. I only use one, on my 14-54 walk-around lens, because it's my "wet" lens and the filter is coated with a water-repellent film. (B&W MRC filter, standard thickness, about $120 for a 62mm.) My other two lenses, and other two cameras, don't use anything. Lens glass is very tough.
matthew Wrote:A polarizer is a must (...then why do I only have it for one of my three lenses...?)
Agreed. Here is what I did. I buy one top-of-the-line polarizer in the filter size that fits my largest lens - 77mm in my case.
Then I buy step up rings (maybe $15 each) for my other lenses - example 67mm to 77mm. Thatr way I can have the same top quality polarizer for all my lenses. I tend to leave the step up rings on the front of my other lenses all the time so all my lens caps are 77mm as well.
This is the least hassel/cost solution I have come up with for that problem.
I have a lot of junk filters I use for special effects. I love my yellow filter when I shoot in black and white because it really darkens the sky and brings out the clouds. My poloraid filter is a dog and vignettes on my current lens. I use a skylight filter instead of putting a lens cap on my lens.
I do like to play with close up filters (lenses). I acquired them in the 70s when I had my beloved Miranda Sensorex (which I lost--boo hoo). But I really don't know how to use them properly.
Thank you for your help , i think that i am going to look into getting both Polorizer and ND .
I haven't heard of a ND filter before, can someone out there give me some more info? if it helps in bright sunlight, I might get one...I hate being out and about but being reluctant to shoot because of the harsh light. Will a ND filter help?
Hey Schell,
ND (Neutral Density, I think?) filters cut out the amount of light without affecting the colour. It reduces the exposure value, i.e. if you want a slower shutter speed or faster aperture, but there's too much light.
It won't cut out the glare, reflections and stray light though, so you still need your lens hood and polariser (if you want that effect), and the usual rules still apply when shooting in bright sunlight.
HTH
I have a UV (skylight filter on all my lenses, aI have a polarizer that fits all but my 300.
I wouldn't bother with ND filters if you need to choose between them and a good quality circular polarizer. You can actually simulate the effect of ND with a circular polarizer - in that the polarizer by its nature reduces your exposure by 1 stop+..
Go with the best circular polarizer you can afford. Keep in mind that some wide angle lenses require a slim line version. You are putting another piece of glass in front of your expensive lens (one reason why I don't bother with UV filters) - so it should be good glass.
I try to buy lenses with the same filter size to save on costs.
I shoot trains a lot, and do considerable night shooting.
In both of these cases and others a UV filter can cause lots of unwanted 'ghosts' from the lights in the frame, so I stopped using one.
Like matthew said, lenses are very tough and keeping the lenscap on when not actually shooting is all the protection you need.
The exceptions are when it's very wet--again like matthew said--and when it's windy/dusty.
Polarizers are must-have.
Neutral Density filters are useful, like when you want a longer shutter time for moving water and other effects but have run out of aperture latitude.
A tip when using a polarizer: finding the 'sweet-spot' where it darkens the sky the most is difficult for some people, but it's easy if you remember that your camera may be readjusting the exposure while you're turning the filter, so the effect won't be visible unless you turn it faster than the camera can keep-up with, or lock your exposure before turning it.
Good tip Keith... hey I'd like to see your train photos... care to post?
shuttertalk Wrote:Good tip Keith... hey I'd like to see your train photos... care to post?
Rather than re-photoshop them smaller to post them, here's a link to some of my favorites.
(Any promising new ones will likely show up here, in smaller form.)
http://www.railroadforums.com/photos/sho...puser=1342
Cool trains Keith!
Thanks for clearing up the ND thingy for me. I don't think it is quite what I was thinking. Will have to get a CP though!
Toad Wrote:...Then I buy step up rings (maybe $15 each) for my other lenses - example 67mm to 77mm. Thatr way I can have the same top quality polarizer for all my lenses. I tend to leave the step up rings on the front of my other lenses all the time so all my lens caps are 77mm as well.
D`oh! I hadn't read that very last part.
I have a number of 58mm filters, and recently bought a 52mm lens. Feeling clever, I bought a 52-58mm step-up ring, and was really pleased with how petite it is.
Now I need a new lens cap.
It's a pity, too -- the Oly 52mm lens cap is excellent. At the risk of offending someone, I might even say that it's better than my 67mm Nikon cap.