Irma Wrote:Of course I won't post any picture of my sunflowers, yours are so beautiful...
Thanks very much, but everyone has their own style and way of photographing the same subject. Feel free to share yours, I'd like to see them.
Irma Wrote:First thing I have problems with the term...
Does strobist mean that you don't have any flash in your camera and your flashes (one or two) should be out of your camera? ... In this assignment one could include pictures with flash you take out doors (fill flash)? G took some nice ones of cows today but we thought that they might not fit as the flash is in the camera...
The assignment itself is for us to work on flash techniques, on-camera or off. Strobist is a particular website that emphases getting the flash off-camera and finding creative ways to use inexpensive equipment. It's a great resource, but following its techniques aren't required.
By calling this assignment "flash" I'm excluding "hot lights", continuous bulbs and lamps. They're great to learn with, because you can see exactly what effect they have, but they're not great to work with. They trail a cord, for one thing, and they're hard on the subject. By learning to use a flash more effectively -- on-camera, off-camera, small, large, single or multiple -- we vastly increase our options. The techniques of modifying and controlling flash is the same for all sizes.
Irma Wrote:Do you think my golden reflector would work the same as your golden board? My umbrella is white both sides made of thin fabrick not like yours? could I get the same effect?
The reflector and board would work the same way. Having a coloured reflector changes the amount and colour of the light that bounces back, as you know; I was just lucky that the gold matches the colours of the subjects well and that I had it available. Except for the very last photo, it wasn't working as a reflector.
I probably should have continued the numbering from one post to the next...
#8 was a single flash with the umbrella. It's probably two stops under-exposed, so increasing the power, decreasing my aperture, or raising the iso setting would have made it much better. The silver umbrella is giving an interesting mix of shadows and diffused light because the strobe is so far from the centre of the umbrella. That's not intentional, but it works.
#6mk2 is the same basic umbrella setup (correctly exposed this time) with the added background light. Being able to add light to the background gives a nice separation, and isn't something I've tried at home before.
The umbrella that I was using is silver on the inside with a black outer shell to stop light from passing through it. (Silver is a better reflector than white, making it a little more efficient with a small strobe.) An umbrella that's all white will allow some light to pass through, so you can either use it to bounce light (as in my setup) or to fire the strobes through. Either way will give you a softer light, because there's more ambient light in the room when you take the photo. You can add something black to the top of the umbrella, or get "convertible" umbrellas that have a removable black shell.
Depth of field in macro photography is always a challenge, and using a strobe adds a solution and a problem. To shoot at an aperture narrow enough to get good DOF requires a great deal of power. If you have enough power it solves the DOF problem, but then you'll have more problems balancing ambient light and wear your batteries out faster.
There's also a difference in our cameras. I'm using a small-sensor SLR at a 50mm focal length. This gives me the angle of view of a 100mm telephoto lens on your 5D, but I keep the depth of field of a 50mm normal lens. So most of my photos are shot at f/11, which gives the same DOF as f/16 on an APS-C camera, or f/22 on a full-frame body, with an equivalent angle of view.
I like all three of your photos, but prefer the more directional light of the second and third ones. #3 is especially nice. The straight-ahead composition works really well with the minimal background, and the soft shadows give an effective sense of depth without blocking any detail.
Irma Wrote:What makes me more angry about this kind of photography is that I don't know how to get the effect I want and I am wandering all the room moving my flashes testing again and at the end I don't get what I really wanted... Yesterday, I found the way I was working so ridiculous... and then I see the assignment "flash"! That was really funny...
I can relate to the frustration, believe me. Taking my setup photos with the flashes firing really helped me to see what was happening, so that made the shoot much simpler.
Here are some of the basic rules that I've figured out, from reading the Strobist website, the various classes I've taken, and my own trial and error:
The closer the flash is, the brighter it will be.
The larger the light source is, the softer it will be.
The closer the flash is, the larger it looks to your subject.
Finally:
Flash is instantaneous. Shutter speed only changes the amount of ambient light. Shooting at 1/125 lets in half as much ambient light as 1/60, but it does not change the power of the flash. Aperture and ISO affect both flash and ambient light. Changing the aperture from f/8 to f/11 will cut your total light in half.