[Webslow]

I've read a number of posts on line about taking pictures in the fog. Great tips on exposure, bracketing, lenses to use, caring for the camera and lens, but nothing mentioned at all about ISO. We get a lot of fog this time of year and I would love to get out there and shoot, shoot, shoot, but before doing so, the more information the better. I hope to find some locations with lakes or rivers, some fields of grapes or trees perhaps a farm house. I'm hitting the road this weekend. I dread driving in the fog and I will keep my fingers crossed some dummy won't rear end my vehicle if I pull off the road somewhere But otherwise I'm looking forward to it. Could be interesting taking pictures of vehicles on the road, but that would be tricky with a faster shutter speed to freeze a vehicle. I can see that it would be easy to write a book on this subject. Any advice is appreciated.

Note that I attempted to search past Threads on this subject but could not find any. Not that they don't exist, but I don't do particularly well with computer programs and navigating websites so...

[NT73]

Use the lowest ISO you can to achieve your objective.
Fog is just a lower light scene than normal.

If you can help it along with PP then fair enough. The tools are there for you to use as you see fit.

[Rolf]

According to David Clapp, a UK landscape photographer, "Contrast problems
Fog lowers contrast considerably and acts as a soft box does – broadening and softening the light. As contrast is greatly reduced, David says it can be very difficult to shoot hand-held when surrounded by fog and because of the lower amount of light present, exposure times can also be excessive particularly in areas such as forests where David says scenes can be spectacular.

Your camera may also try to expose in a similar way it does in snow where it sees light from both the ground and sky area and adjusts accordingly. As a result, you'll have to use + exposure compensation (overexpose). You want to make sure your flash is switched off too as David explains: “When surrounded by fog, artificial light sources do nothing to help. A burst of flash will have the same effect has putting car headlights on full beam, it reduces your visibility and can even cause a ‘white out’ effect. You must photograph in natural light."

I hope that little insight helps? I have found though, that overexposing for fog and especially snow, blows out any details and if you overexpose for the snow you could possibly mess up other elements in your composition. I have found that increasing the White Balance to a higher Kelvin value ( somewhere around 7000-7500K) helps to make snow white and keep the details... I have not tried it with fog (don't get that much out here) but it may work the same way as for snow. Good luck and wear something that makes you stand out to passing cars!

Kind regards
Rolf

[Freeman]

A key element of David Clapp's advice is that a tripod is advised.

In this situation, fog in woods and so forth, calls for a light 'travel' type tripod. What is folks experience of travel tripods? I am about to acquire one but aware my camera plus lens are awfully heavy...regards, Jeff

[Rolf]

Hi Jeff

I use this carbon fibre 'pod. It weighs in at 4.4lbs which is good for the size and stability you get. That is without a head. It is 3 section. I would avoid 4 section as they tend to be a little spindly and will move under windy conditions. They are generally smaller though what stowed. http://www.manfrotto.in/product/24329.11...tal_column This takes nearly 20lbs weight.

You may not need that capacity so ... try this one http://www.manfrotto.in/294-carbon-fiber...ns-mt294c3 it weighs in at 31/2lbs and can support safely 11lbs.

There are others of aluminium construction and other makes... Gitzo is good, Velbon are getting better but I really would avoid spending good money on a cheap tripod - it could risk falling and damaging your camera and lens. I would also caution against a very lightweight 'pod mounting a camera and lens combo on it , finding it still moves and tying weight (sandbags etc.) to give added stability. This may overload the structural capacity of the 'pod and cause collapse.

A lot of variables... Then there is the head... everything from simple ball head to gimbal... You can get "creep" with cheap ball heads where you think its locked but the lens/camera obey gravity and slowly overcome the ball lock and point down hill! Advantage of a ball is that it is light... a good one is not "cheap" but will last a very long time so think of it as a one time investment.

This one is very good and will be able to accommodate future possibly heavier camera/lens combos. http://www.manfrotto.in/057-magnesium-ba...mh057m0-q5 I would also recommend a head with a release plate. That saves the perilous few seconds it takes to try to find the thread and screw you camera base to the head screw. Fit the plate to the body and then it will just click in place on the head. If you use a long heavy lens... fit the plate to the lens 'pod mount.

I use a gimbal head as I do wildlife so the need to tilt and pan quickly is what this head allows for. Far quicker than tri-axial heads. They do cost silly money but again, I never will have to buy another. http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-wimbe...i/p1012216

Some food for thought? I like Manfrotto... but it is really a matter of affordability and what meets your needs and what type of photography you do.

Kind regards
Rolf

[EdMak]

Take a few shots on Programme, evaluate, and go from there. Ed.

[Freeman]

Hi Jeff

.....Some food for thought? I like Manfrotto... but it is really a matter of affordability and what meets your needs and what type of photography you do.

Kind regards
Rolf

Hi Rolf this is all quite brilliant and helpful. Thank you. My camera and lens (D610+80-400G) weigh about 2.5 kg and my immediate concern was to have a lightweight travel tripod for overseas travel which would take that weight and yet be lightweight itself, as well as being sufficiently stable and double quick to prepare for use. I went the Manfrotto direction you indicate, going for the Befree. I set it up with matching camera and lens in the local store and found that at the price it was worth a try. At some future point I will have to move to a serious tripod no doubt, but hopefully this will be a significant step forward. Mashpi Lodge and Galapagos, here I come. Thanks again, Jeff

[Rolf]

Hi Jeff

.....Some food for thought? I like Manfrotto... but it is really a matter of affordability and what meets your needs and what type of photography you do.

Kind regards
Rolf

Hi Rolf this is all quite brilliant and helpful. Thank you. My camera and lens (D610+80-400G) weigh about 2.5 kg and my immediate concern was to have a lightweight travel tripod for overseas travel which would take that weight and yet be lightweight itself, as well as being sufficiently stable and double quick to prepare for use. I went the Manfrotto direction you indicate, going for the Befree. I set it up with matching camera and lens in the local store and found that at the price it was worth a try. At some future point I will have to move to a serious tripod no doubt, but hopefully this will be a significant step forward. Mashpi Lodge and Galapagos, here I come. Thanks again, Jeff

Very Welcome Jeff, envy your travels... share some pics?

Kind regards

Rolf